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- The Mullet Report: Lessons From Embracing My Natural Wavy Hair
We're just coming up on two years ago that I wrote about embarking on the rather unexpected journey of uncovering my true natural hair texture. I call it an "unexpected" journey because despite having been told by every hairdresser I've ever known some permutation of "your hair has a lot of body", I had actually never really had a single hairdresser use the words "curly", "wavy" or even "textured" when referring to my hair. Even the ones that knew my family and knew that my father had a head full of very curly salt and pepper ringlets - not a one of them ever suggested to me that my hair might be wavy and that there might be a specific way for me to care for it. Consequently, as implausible as it may seem, I somehow managed to spend 50 years on this planet without really knowing that all that pouffiness and frizz that seemed to constantly manifest atop my head was not actually retribution from The Universe for having opinions or using the wrong shampoo any other kind of made-up transgression, but rather just a wavy curl pattern crying out for the right kind of care. Sure, I had my suspicions that my hair wasn't stick straight, but as a relatively low-maintenance hair gal I really did not understand just how much of a difference taking proper care of my waves really makes in how it behaves. For many, if not most of you, this post will likely fall into the "oddly specific" category, and a lot of it may not apply to your specific hair type. However, I'm giving you this detailed account of how I arrived at finding my natural hair texture because as a wavy haired person, I have one of the hardest hair types to manage - doubly so when you throw the silver hair into the mix. If all of my "time in the saddle" experimenting with techniques and products will help another wavy-headed sister on her way to finding the resources necessary to make peace with her natural texture, that's good enough for me. Styling My Wavy Hair in the Before Times I think its important to take a minute to address how I always wore my hair before fully understanding my natural texture. There are a lot of you out there with similar hidden loose curl and wave patterns and it is very likely that you may have had, or are currently having a similar experience to mine. The photo on the left is what I always looked like when I came out of the salon. I had taken to wearing my hair in really long, heavy, barely-layered style for no other reason than the weight of it would give me a fighting chance at getting it the littlest bit smooth. If I got a professional salon trim the salon would add a generous helping of some sort of leave-in conditioner or heat protectant, blow dry my hair on high heat with a big round brush, flatten it with a straightening iron, then add some type of serum or oil on top to seal it and give it sheen. Maybe they would even add some finishing spray on top of that if it was a rainy day (in Scotland, it's always a rainy day). I just figured that this kind of routine was my lot in life if I wanted to look put-together. My hair always looked and felt nice in the hours immediately after I left a salon (at least, on a dry day), but the amount of work, time and products involved in reproducing this result meant I was never willing (or even able) to reproduce it in real life. The above photo on the right is what I would look like on a good day, when left to my own devices. Generally I would wash it, let it partially air dry, then tie my hair up most of the time. When I wanted to ride horses or motorbikes, I braided it in two tight braids at the back of my head so my helmets would fit. No matter what kind of iron-clad hair tie I tried, the weight of the ponytail would shake loose during a high impact workout. It was heavy and dense and I was aware that I was constantly pulling and damaging it just to get by, but I knew of no other way to make it work. No matter how moisturizing the shampoo or how much leave-in or serum I used, my hair still would often feel brittle and would go all pouffy. Products that promised softness and smoothness, if they worked at all, would wear off the moment I waked into an environment with some humidity and wind. So I'd add more product. More frizz. Living between the UK and Florida, I was in a perpetual disaster loop of pouffiness and frizz. The moment that led me to my decision to try and better manage my hair was that most motivating of all human factors - public humiliation. I was working on a short film project in which hair had been neatly (professionally) slicked-back into a bun. We stepped outside to film the scene, and within seconds of being outside in the damp, windy weather, my neatly coiffed hair turned into a flyaway frizz bomb that would not be denied its close-up. They literally had to stop filming the scene to sort out my hair. Mortifying. Growing weary of my follicular musings? Skip ahead here: What is The Curly Girl Method & Why Does it Work? The Takeaway for Fine, Dense Type 2 Wavy Hair Show Me The Wavy Hair Products Already! What is The Curly Girl Method & Why Does it Work? The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is based on the Curly Girl book by celebrated stylist Lorraine Massey (and Michelle Bender in the more recent edition). While this brief article does not do justice to the immense amount of information in this book, the backbone of the method is comprised of a set of "rules" that if followed, will result in more moisture being directed into the hair shaft, which in turn will result in healthier, softer, more frizz-free hair with an enhanced natural curl pattern. Historically I'm not a fan of things that require the adherence to a lot of (or any) rules, and with hindsight that is probably the reason it took me the better part of 50 years to figure out that my hair was actually pretty darn wavy. But my own resistance notwithstanding, after literally halting an entire film crew with my frizz, I enthusiastically dove in to CGM, and in pretty short order realized that I had been caring for my hair all wrong for the past half century. Again, there's a lot of info in the Curly Girl book, but below are some of the rules of the road: Use a sulfate free shampoo or a co-wash. Sulfates are what make a shampoo lather-up nicely, but they effectively strip the hair of both dirt and oil. In fact, they strip the dirt and oil a little too well, and don't leave enough moisture on textured hair (which is inherently drier than straight hair). This results in dryness, frizz, and the loss of curl pattern. A co-wash is a sulfate-free conditioning cleanser (oftentimes just a straight-up conditioner is used, replacing a two-step shampoo and conditioner wash. Do not use silicone-containing products. Silicones build-up over time, weigh the hair down, and prevent moisture from entering the hair. Ultimately, the very thing that you are using to give your hair a sleeker, moisturized appearance will end up being the very thing that is drying it out. Give up heat styling. Air dry your hair or use a diffuser on the very lowest/no heat setting. No curling irons, no flat irons. No alcohol-containing products. Alcohol is drying, and CGM is all about trying to get more moisture into the hair. No terry cloth towels. Apparently traditional towelling roughs up the hair's cuticle, creating excess frizz. Instead, use a microfiber towel or an old cotton t shirt. Do a reset cleanse before you start, and clarify regularly. CGM recommends doing one "final wash" with a clarifying, sulfate-containing shampoo to remove buildup before embarking on your Curly Girl journey, then using a sulfate-free clarifying shampoo every so often to remove buildup. Condition like there's no tomorrow. Use a silicone-free conditioner, running it thoroughly through your hair as you shower. "Squish to condish" by sqishing the conditioner into your lengths and ends with plenty of water, and take your time to really get the moisture into the hair shaft. When you've rinsed the hair should feel like wet seaweed. Only brush or comb your hair when in the shower conditioning, never dry brush. CGM urges you to not dry brush your hair, saving that step for detangling in the shower with conditioner and a wide tooth comb or Tangle Teaser to prevent breakage. Don't use too much product. CGM is all about getting the moisture you need by not over-stripping the hair or over-moisturizing it. Adding tons of product in an attempt to add more moisture, definition or hold adds weight and flattens the curl pattern. This is an elusive and highly-individualized balance that everyone needs to figure out for themselves. Protect your hair while you sleep. To reduce friction (and therefore frizz) while you sleep, CGM recommends the use of a silk or satin bonnet, a scarf, and/or a silk or satin pillow case. Learn your curl type, hair density and porosity. It all can seem pretty overwhelming (and many of us may have more than one texture type on our heads), but knowing whether your hair is coarse or fine, low or high porosity, and the type of curl pattern you have will help guide your product selection. Find your curl type here Find your hair density and porosity here Need more help? Take Naturally Curly's texture quiz Get a good curly cut. Cutting some strategic layers and taking out the weight can make all the difference in how your hair behaves. My Takeaways for Fine, Dense Type 2 Wavy Hair In case the above header isn't enough of a hint, yes...I have fine, dense type 2 wavy hair that is a combination of 2b and 2c waves. This means I have a ton of very small, fine little hairs on my head (although some of the silver ones are by nature more coarse). My hair is low porosity, so it takes a long time to get wet and to dry (especially with product in it). My waves start forming s-shapes at the crown (curly bangs!). The most notable characteristic of wavy type 2-3 hair is that it frizzes easily as the hair cuticle opens and closes like a revolving door when the hair is under or over moisturized. As it turns out, type 2 to 3 waves are in fact the frizziest wave/curl types on the spectrum. Of course they are. *sighs wistfully Granted, this knowledge was not my jumping off point, but rather the culmination of a lot of what I have learned over the last two years of experimenting with CGM. As everything you read and hear on the curly internet will attest, this is a process, and you will go through a transition period while you are learning what works and what doesn't. Even after many years when you are more attuned to what your hair actually needs, you will still be learning and tweaking and trying new things. So where am I now, two years later? Do I still follow all the "rules" of CGM? ✓ Use sulfate-free shampoo & co-wash. Yes. I absolutely use both of these things. Sulfate-free shampoo doesn't lather-up the way you may be accustomed to in a shampoo, but it's a worthwhile sacrifice. Co-washes are a bit trickier, and for my fine type 2 hair most of them are too rich and weigh my hair down. That said, there are a few on the market that break the mould and that I use religiously and are my go - to hair washes. I'll link them in the next section. ✓ ❌ Give up silicone containing products. Yes. And also no. I absolutely have stopped using any non water-soluble silicones (like the ever-popular dimethocone) in any products, shampoos and conditioners. This has made a pretty big difference in my ability to get moisture into my hair on the daily and has definitely enhanced my natural wave pattern. I do however have one product (thus far) that contains a water-soluble silicone. These silicones generally start with PEG- followed by a number. While the PEG silicones are not the only water soluble silicones on the market, they are certainly some of the most widely-used. They have differing degrees of water-solubility (which corresponds to the number), but in general I will entertain these products if weather conditions are soggy and dire. Remember, I live between Florida and Scotland. It's always wet and soggy everywhere I go. Water-solubility notwithstanding, it's important to note that even water-soluble silicones can build-up, and they do end up relaxing my wave patern a bit (I don't mind that), but in extreme heat and humidity, these products can really help if I need to go somewhere and look somewhat professional. When I do use these products, I always clarify my hair on the next wash day. ❌ Give up heat styling. I never really adopted this, because I found it massively inconvenient when you're in a crunch. However, I will say that normally I rarely use a heat on my hair, so it wasn't a big change for me. I do however still continue my practice of occasionally taking a curling iron to any errant waves that may have dried a bit wonky just to finish them off if I need to go out and look presentable. When I do blow dry, I always use a diffuser, and if I do up the heat (because come on - otherwise it takes forever), I try to dry in small bursts of heat followed by a cool blast. ❌ No alcohol-containing products. Not all alcohols are created equal, and without going into the chemistry of long chain and short chain alcohols (zzzz), I do still tend to avoid alcohols like Isopropol or Ethyl. Click here for a good quickie rundown of the "good" and "bad" alcohols you often find in products. ✓ No terry cloth towels. This one was easy enough to adopt so I did. I use one of those microfiber hair turbans most of the time, or in a pinch, sometimes just an old t shirt. I use a technique called "plopping" after putting my product in my hair, and leave my hair in my microfiber plop while I do my face. Click here to learn more about plopping. ✓ Do a reset cleanse and clarify regularly. Yep. Clarifying is really important when you're wavy. After my initial sulfate cleanse at the beginning of my CGM journey, I switched to a sulfate-free clarifying shampoo (I'll link it below). I find that the more experience I get with CGM, the less product I need to use, and the less frequently I need to clarify. ❌ Condition like crazy. While I do have a few deep conditioners that I use on rotation (mostly on days I clarify), I find that the better condition my hair is in, the less I need to go crazy with the conditioner. As a fine-haired person (yes, even one with a lot of grey hair on her head), anything that potentially might weigh my hair down I treat with caution. I prefer to get my moisture from using the right cleanser that doesn't strip my hair. I go by feel, and if my hair feels soft and moisturized when I'm rinsing, I stop there. If I've been out in the sun or in the pool, I might reach for a more moisturizing conditioner. This practice is going to be pretty specific to your hair type. If you have coarse, coily hair, my way will probably not work for you. But if you have type 2 fine hair, I strongly suggest it. ❌ Never dry brush your hair. I still dry brush my hair, but only really before I shower. I went an entire year only using a wet brush in the shower while conditioning, and man did I miss brushing my hair. Unless I've been on my scooter with my loose hair hanging out the bottom of my helmet, my hair doesn't really tangle all that easily, and I am able to just brush it out without incident. When I brush, I use a gentle boar bristle brush, turn my head upside down, and give it a good once-over before I wash my hair. Brushing feels so good, stimulates the scalp, and disperses the natural oils from the scalp. So yeah, I ignore this "rule" entirely. ✓✓ Don't use too much product. This is the one aspect of CGM that I have come to feel really strongly about, and it really makes a difference to type 2 wavy hair. Most internet curly influencers that you see on YouTube or Instagram use an absolutely obscene amount of product. We're talking four or five products all layered on top of one another. Unless you have very coarse, type 4 hair, this is simply too much product for most people, doubly true if you have fine hair! If you are just starting your journey, you may think you're getting decent results because you're using so many products, and perhaps at first, you are. But all that's really happening here is you're giving your hair adequate moisture for maybe the first time, and the hair responds well to being coated in ultra-moisturizing products. At first. But if you keep up this routine, very soon the buildup will happen, and when it does, you're back into the land of limp, scraggly locks and frizz. Go on any of the many online wavy hair forums and read the comments; there are always people outlining their routines, frustrated that they are not getting good results. Inevitably these folk are almost always using far too much product. You can often even see it with influencers. Sure, they sometimes get good definition in their waves, but to me the hair often looks flat and borderline greasy - like it's not gonna last more than a day. I can get at least three days out of my fine wavy hair after a good wash day, even with workouts. The importance of being judicious with product cannot be overstated for those of us with wavy hair. I know of an entire product line (which I will not name) that advertises their heavy, multi-step product "system" with a spokesperson with very obviously fine type 2a waves, and the limp, flattened result drives me nuts. Personally, I don't mind losing a bit of definition if it means a natural, volume-infused result. Everyone is different, but I like a bit of an undone (read: feral) look, and realistically, if you have type 2 wavy hair (or any textured hair), a bit of frizz (a bit) is going to be par for the course. Embrace it...just don't let it halt a film production mid shoot. ✓ Protect your hair while you sleep. Yep. Granted, I am not a person who can wear something on her head while she sleeps. Bonnets drive me nuts, and I wake up with them floating around loose in the bed. I settled on a few inexpensive satin pillowcases to add to my rotation, and left it at that. That seems to work for me. I wake up, refresh my waves by spritzing with water to reactivate the product in my hair, and that's it. ✓ Learn your curl type, density and porosity. Check. Type 2B-C waves, high density, low porosity. My hair type enjoys a bit of protein in products and absolutely melts-down if I use too much of anything. ✓ Get a good curly cut. Definitely. This is vital. I had gotten a curly cut early on in my journey, then got busy and was travelling when it was time for a trim so I went to a walk-in place two times (on two separate occasions), and got two subsequent terrible cuts. Completely my fault, but man...what a difference. Definitely entertain the idea of more layers than you may have been wearing before, depending on your hair type. Go to a stylist who undertands textured hair - shrinkage is real! I've since found a stylist that I absolutely love in my hometown in Wisconsin, so for the first time in ages I'm getting regular salon cuts again. It was this stylist who at my request, cut my current shag mullet. I wanted something a bit more rock and roll that would grow out nicely, and this is the easiest haircut I've had in decades. Because the cut isn't always in my face, I'm wearing my hair down more than I ever have. Show Me The Wavy Hair Products Already! The search for the perfect product is an ongoing and lifelong quest, and one that really never ends. I'm a sucker for anything that promises the holy trifecta of moisture, definition and volume. Below, I've linked some of the products in my routine that have worked for me thus far, and are (mostly) affordable and easy to get. Remember, what works for my type 2b-2c hair will not necessarily work for your unique hair type, but I've written a few lines about each product, so you can decide for yourself. My normal routine - I wash with a conditioning cleanser, run some gel through it while soaking wet, scrunch to encourage wave clumps, then put my hair in my microfiber "plop" turban for about 15 minutes. If I want a bit more hold I will scrunch in some mousse after I've taken off my microfiber towel. Most days, that's it. That's the routine. Below is some of my current lineup. Current Wavy Hair Product Lineup Umberto Giannini Curl Jelly Shampoo & Conditioner UK | USA This is a really lovely formulation that leaves my hair soft and bouncy, needing minimal product afterwards. Their Curl Jelly styling gel is also a very popular product, although I have yet to try it. The only thing I don't care for is the smell, which while not unpleasant, skews a bit perfumey for my liking. This set is a good all-rounder that would likely work for everyone Hairstory New Wash Conditioning Cleanser UK | USA This is hands-down my favorite cleanser, and one of the few co-washes that actually works for me when I use it every day. My hairdresser introduced me to this, and initially I was skeptical, but this one-step co-wash is all I need. It leaves my hair soft but doesn't weigh it down. Some people report a transition period when switching to this product, I did not find that to be true for me personally. The downside? DEAR GOD this stuff is expensive. It's worth trying if you can afford it; this product is absolutely my first choice of hair cleanser. This is all I would use if I were made of money. It comes in three formulations - deep, original, and rich. Learn more about how this product works here. Revolution Cleanse Wash Conditioning Cleanser Thank goodness for Revolution Beauty, the UK-based company that makes dupes of all of the fancy-pants products that we can ill afford in this economy. This is their version of the previously mentioned product, and it's good. You don't have the different moisture options like with the Hairstory, but it's a heck of a bargain, so I'm not complaining. Giovanni 50:50 Balancing-Clarifying Shampoo UK | USA I happened upon a giant bottle of this at TJ Maxx about a year ago, and it's been my go-to clarifying shampoo ever since. The bottle states it's gentle enough to use every day, and although it is indeed a gentle clarifying formula, I wouldn't recommend everyday use. It's also CGM-friendly, and a great precursor to your deep conditioner. Garnier Ultimate Blends Hair Food Deep Conditioner • Aloe Vera UK | USA This is a great all-around moisture treatment that will likely work on most hair types. They make several different "flavors" of this product, each with a slightly different scent and key ingredient, but the main formulation is basically the same. I often use this after clarifying to give me a moisture boost. I didn't realize until writing this piece, but this is getting harder to find in the USA. It is still widely available in the UK as a good inexpensive option for deep (or even regular) conditioning. Treluxe Hi Definition Styling Gel UK | USA I need very little of this gel for it to be effective. It is a custard-like conditioning gel with soft, non-crunch hold. It's easy to go overboard with this gel, but if I get it right my hair is well defined with very little frizz and smells glorious. Start small and build-up to find the right amount of product for your hair. This product has a bit of protein in it, which my hair loves. Ouidad Climate Control Heat & Humidity Gel UK | USA This gel is another favorite. It has a soft but effective hold, a thinner formulation (like a serum) that spreads easily and makes it easy to get a light application, and it really works to combat the frizz and floof in high humidity conditions. I always have a bottle of this on hand in Florida. Be careful if you are doing CGM and want to try the rest of the Climate Control product line - not all of them are CGM friendly (although this one is!) Curlsmith Bond Curl Rehab Salve Protein Treatment UK | USA This Bond Curl Rehab Salve is not a conditioner, or even a deep conditioner. It's a protein treatment meant to repair bonds in the hair. You use it on damp hair before you wash it, and I find that it gives my hair a nice boost if I've been swimming in the sea or out in the elements and have a bit of damage to contend with. I tend to alternate this with a deep conditioner every month or so, depending on what I need. Microfiber Hair Turban UK | USA These microfiber turban towels are easy to use, easy to wash, and allow you to plop your hair hands-free while you do something else. I also use mine to scrunch excess product out of my hair. A Word About Mousse In attempting to add my favorite current mousses to this list, I realized pretty quickly that most of them were either being discontinued, have had recent formula changes, or are always sold out. While I finish having my discontinued product panic attack, I am listing my current rotation below (old formulas), with an added caution that these products will be hard to find, and if you do find them they will likely be stupidly overpriced. I will follow-up at a later date with a fresh batch of mousse recommendations once I deplete my current supply and find a few new favorites. Herbal Essences Totally Twisted Curl Boosting Mousse (discontinued) Not Your Mothers Curl Talk Mousse (still available, just hard to find) Pantene Defined Curls Mousse (discontinued)
- 40+ Hack: Silver and Gray Hair Requires a Strong Brow Game
Greetings fashionistas! During the ongoing process of migrating nearly a decade's worth of posts to this, the new platform, it dawned on me that I have not done a hair post in what appears to be quite literally years. The posts I originally did back in 2012 (ish) about my journey of ditching the dye and making the transition to my natural gray hair are, to this day, some of my most popular posts, so I suppose I've been a bit negligent in the area of aftercare for those of you who may have been looking for a follow-up after all this time. I'm guessing that like me, those if you who have been living with your natural hair for a while now have long since ditched any insecurities about it. I know I certainly have. But that's not to say that I haven't had to rethink quite a lot of my overall style game in the wake of the transition. It's always been my belief that when you have long (too long as of right now), naturally unruly salt and pepper hair at middle age, the rest of your style game has to have a bit of bite to it as to not accidentally mimic that most tired of middle aged woman archetypes, The Crazy Cat Lady. Mind you, it's completely acceptable to actually be a Crazy Cat Lady, it's apparently looking like one that has become some sort of emblem of a portion of society's desire to erase middle aged women from the sartorial paradigm. But I digress. Some of us wouldn´t go quietly anyway, as you could probably guess. Defining Your Brows at 40+ Let's talk about what I think is the most important part of cultivating a finished, eye-catching, and at times dramatic look on the backdrop of natural gray and silver hair, middle agedness, or really wherever you happen to be on your journey. The secret ingredient? A strong eyebrow game. A well-proportioned, gently-defined brow has the power to completely elevate your look. This is even more important as we age. Thinner skin, graying hair, perhaps a bit of (dare I day it) sagging (gasp) of the facial structures all work to erase the definition we had in our youth. While it would be ill-advised to reach for the products we did in our 20s, we can still work with what we've got, in the context of where we are now. Those of you who have been with me for a while may remember a previous post I did about eyebrow pencils for gray hair. I still stand by the products that I recommended in that post. However, personally I have moved on to a different product, which I'm wearing in these photos. In fact, it is the only product I have on my brows in these photos. No pencil, no wax, no clear gel to "set" anything. This is what I'm into right now. And no, I hasten to add I'm not being paid for this post. Anastasia Dipbrow Gel - $18 USD / £25 GBP (varies) So first of all, don't get this confused with the Anastasia Tinted Brow Gel, which is a different product. This product, the Dipbrow Gel, is in the same line of products as their much-lauded Dipbrow Pomade, which I have also tried. Personally, I didn't have much luck with the pomade; I simply did not have a skilled enough hand to work with the little brush and waterproof formula to get a realistic hairstroke painted on my face before it dried down, and I always ended up looking a bit "painted-on." With that experience logged-away in my mental browsing history, I was a bit nervous trying the gel formula from the same line, but after giving it a go in Sephora in Tampa , I was hooked. It's essentially the same formula made into what is basically a mascara for the brows. But unlike mascara, you can also use this formula to do some shading. It's a lot easier than the original pomade formula, but some practice is still required to find the right amount of product and pressure of application to get the look you're after. The shade I use is Ash Brown, which I believe is the third from the left in the pic above. It's a really great cool option for a dark brunette without being inky black, or reddish when the light hits it. The following are a few tricks that I've come to learn about this product, which I love more and more with each application. Scrape off the excess product from the brush, as you would with a new tube of mascara. This will prevent accidental little blobs of color depositing more product than you may want onto your brows. Start with a very light hand. Don't press the wand into the base of your brows, as you do with mascara at the base of your lashes. Instead, just gently flit the wand in the direction of the hair. If you do make a boo-boo, you can correct it with a Q-tip dipped in makeup remover. The sooner the better, this formula doesn't budge once it dries. Pursuant to said waterproof formula, if you like a "feathered" appearance to your brow hairs like I do, make sure you work light and quick - it dries pretty fast. If you are someone who needs to fill-in your brows, the best way to do it with this product is to apply a light layer, let it dry for a minute, then use a brush to gently nudge the color into the space you want to fill. Most importantly, don't overwork it! Use a light hand - a little goes a long way! My favorite tool to use with this product is actually the brush I got when I tried the original pomade formula - the Anastasia Brush 12 Dual Ended Firm Angle Brush. Once the product has dried-down, I use the mascara end to comb-out any remaining blobs and spread the color out a bit. If you need more filling-power the angled end of the brush would work perfectly (being a rather thick-browed human, I don't do this.) Once you find your stride with this product, you can create looks ranging from natural to Ka-Pow! Today I did what I consider to be my standard application, which incidentally, also passes the nautral light test with flying colors. Now to do something about that frizzy hair. I should have paused for a handful of serum after I took the clip out. I clearly hadn't thought this through. This post has been shared with: Not Dressed as Lamb, Jersey Girl, Texan Heart, Living on Cloud Nine, A Labour of Fashion, Curly Crafty Mom, Doused in Pink Find it Here!
- Sustainable Look: Y2K Hoedown
One of the things I really love about curating a vintage shop is challenging myself to create entire looks from only my stock. There's something so satisfying about creating a whole look out of pieces that someone else has written-off - it's actually very addicting. Once you get a taste for it, the "normal" consumptive practice of point and click, instant gratification shopping feels boring. To that end, I've decided to challenge myself each week to create a sustainable look from my stock to showcase here on the blog. Not only does it tick the box for shameless self-promotion, it's a small step towards shifting our collective attitudes as consumers towards a more sustainable, less wasteful means of cultivating one's personal style. It's also a bit like announcing on social media that you're going to go to the gym five days a week and post it on Instagram - I'm committing to it and you guys are going to hold me accountable, lest I suffer the public shame of being "all hat and no cattle". So. All of the looks I post here are pieces that are in the vintage shop. Many, if not most, you will probably recognize from their first runs during their respective eras. So without further Ado, I give you today's contribution which I'm calling "Y2K Hoedown" •1990s Esprit cropped plaid sleeveless blouse (M) •Y2K era Wrangler distressed embroidered denim skirt (M) •Y2K era croc-embossed cross body bag (unbranded)
- Dressing Around a Statement Piece
When you hail from America's Dairyland as I do (that's the US state of Wisconsin to those of you not totally familiar with the American states), and The Universe sees fit to show you an ad that highlights the fact that after nearly a half a century you do not yet own a pair of Holstein print cowboy boots, there really is only one thing to do. Yeah, I pulled the trigger. As much as I don't really need anything new these days, sometimes you just have to. These aptly-named "Live a Little" boots by Dingo are the ultimate statement piece, and my new favorite thing. To create a look, they really require nothing from you other than to just show up. They work well as an accent to a simple monochromatic look , but equally are pretty darn fun to do a bit of pattern mixing with, or just to pair with a dress or skirt to take things in a bit of an unexpected direction. I paired it with this Dylan Babydoll denim shirt from Free People (which in retrospect I wish I'd gotten in a Medium instead of a Large but oh well), and just a simple plain black tank top and grey skinnies. That's it. Same basic pandemic uniform of t shirts and jeans, but now with 40% more cow! Just because things have gotten sartorially a lot more casual during the last year does not mean things have to be boring. Amirite? Above: Dingo "Live a Little" cow print boots | Free People Dylan Babydoll Top | snowflake obsidian drop earrings (old), similar | snowflake obsidian bead bracelets (old), similar Below: Boots as above | Vintage 90s Leopard Print Shirt | Y2K Vintage Wrangler Distressed Denim Skirt w/ Embroidery | Leather Medallion Belt
- Sustainable Look: Summer of '99
I used to love it when we all used to wear these little denim vests over our sundresses. IF you had a particularly boobalicious dress (like this one can be if you make too sudden a move), it gives you a bit of a protective layer. It also makes you feel a bit less full-on naked when you go into a grocery store in the heat of summer and are confronted with the AC and the freezers all going full-tilt. This little 90s era vest is nice because it hangs at an angle, so the points of the corners of the vest sort of slope inwards towards the waist to create a nice visual shape. All these items are secondhand. All available in the shop. Except the t-strap wedges. Those are mine, and I'm not sharing. •90s Tropical Sundress •90s Cropped Denim Vest •2000s Unionbay Western Style Handbag •Tooled Leather "Nicaragua" Flip Flops (below)
- Does an 80s Shoulder Work in 2021?
An "eighties shoulder" is of course the polite euphemism for the sartorial elephant in the room - that thing that makes us all cringe when we think about it. Shoulder pads. Eeew. Even typing it gave me a wee moment of panic just there. All of us of a certain age remember those linebacker-inspired 80s styles that were so famously paraded around by every television presenter and Dynasty cast member of the time. When I'm curating my vintage shop, I spend a fair amount of time gazing upon shoulder pads - enough time to have apparently brokered a peace treaty between us. While there once was a time where I simply would never consider a garment that had shoulder pads in it, now I'm in the "maybe these aren't actually that bad" camp. Sure, say what you will; that tolerating any level of shoulder pad is the gateway to bigger, harder forms of shoulder pads, that zero tolerance can be the only policy, blah blah blah...it's fine I can quit any time I want! The thing I've come to realize is that many of these vintage garments are actually cut to accommodate the shoulder pads. If they're especially big shoulder pads, removing them entirely can alter the look of the garment, sometimes for the better, often not. Consider for a moment this vintage 80s Liz Claiborne dress. This is a dress that was definitely cut with the shoulder pads in mind, and I'm wearing it as it was sold off the rack in the 80s, with the original shoulder pads intact. These shoulder pads work great in a 1986 sort of way. The strong shoulder makes your waist look smaller, keeps the shoulder seams of the dress where they're supposed to be, and gives the top a nice blousy effect without the neckline plunging too low. Are they larger than I would want in 2021? Yes, ideally I would downsize them to something that just provides a hint of structure without all the bulk, retaining the overall shape the designer had in mind, but generally, I like what they do to the drape of the dress. Equally I think with these 80s pieces, bringing your own personal sense of styling into play is the other essential ingredient; a strong sense of personal style sort of coaxes a strong vintage 80s piece back into the modern realm, lest you end up looking like an extra who wandered off the set of some 80s flashback film, in search of the craft services table no doubt. So... the question at hand: does an 80s shoulder work in 2021? Yes. Mostly. I reserve the right to make modifications to some of the more spectacularly scaled-up specimens, but (and I can't believe I'm writing this), even shoulder pads have their place in the Great Divine Cosmic Sartorial Design Scheme.
- 90s Inspired Destructed Denim
I'm a big fan of 90s-style denim shirtdresses. They're easy to come by (check your local thrift stores!), travel well, layer even better, and are something you can grab in a pinch and feel like you at least tried to make some kind of look happen that day. This particular specimen is the only denim dress I have in my closet that isn't actually secondhand. Yes, it's distressed and has the look of something pre-loved, but this one I actually bought off the rack. Sadly, it's from a season ago, so I can no longer find it to link to any more, but this look is easily reproduced with just about any denim dress you can find in your local stores. I decided to go ahead and purchase this one new (something I hardly ever do any more) because I was drawn to the heavy, old-school thickness of the denim, the Western detailing on the pockets and back yoke, and the high-low hem that makes bending over a bit less terrifying if you're not layering it over something. My intention today was to layer it over tights and a long sleeve shirt, but this sort of happened on its own, and I liked the look. If you were to swap out my Dan Post over the knee boots, which on me are more "mid kneecap" boots (what can I say I'm a giant with long femurs) - but if you were to swap those boots out for a thick-soled Doc Marten and dye my hair back to it's natural bark brunette, you'd basically be looking at my 90s self. I used to be one of those people who was wary about the type and amount of "destruction" I was willing to wear in my denim, but like a lot of things I used to hold up as sartorial "rules", the older I get the more of them go straight out the window. Check back when I'm still doing this blog in my 80s for the pleather parachute pants paired with a gold lamé bikini top and light-up cowboy hat. By then it will be an absolute no rules free-for-all around here.
- Seasonal Antidote
This post is a bit of a quick aside that I conjured while I was busying myself photographing this late 90s wrap tunic for the Etsy shop. Despite my hypothermic brain fog caused by trying to take advantage of the outdoor light in a short sleeve shirt, I realized while I was out there that this Ikat top and these embroidered jeans (which I just so happened to have on) did indeed create a bit of a look. I have quite a few of these Ikat and Aztec-inspired print items from the 90s and 2000s in the shop - I am drawn to these prints at the best of times, but especially at this time of year - they're a nice antidote to all the darkness. And yes, I suppose mean that literally and figuratively. A few weeks ago, pre-lockdown, I had to make a trip to Glasgow and was struck at just how dark everyone's sartorial game was. I mean sure, it's January, but I think that's exactly why I like color at this time of year. When the sun doesn't even think about bringing in the light until well after 830 am and starts going down at 315 pm, you've got to get your light somewhere. Sometimes you just have to bring it yourself. Vintage 90s wrap top | Rock & Roll Denim embroidered jeans
- 80s Red & Black
Oh, hey! Yeah, just nipping out to the shed to get some wood in my vintage dress, high-heeled boots, jewelry, and a hat...no biggie. I think I speak for us all when I say that this is in fact, not an accurate representation of that newest of fashion genres, "2020 apocalyptic lockdown chic." I'm also happy to report that after several months in the US, two international flights, and a fair bit of driving from Wisconsin to Florida, I appear thus far to have come out the other side in one piece. Here but for the grace. But I want to be very clear about the fact that this is not luck. I am an advanced practice nurse, a religious mask-wearer and hand washer, an embracer of social isolaton as a lifestyle choice, and I suppose having actual training in the proper donning and doffing of PPE doesn't hurt either. Because, science. What's really going on here is that I was going through my unlisted stock for the vintage shop, trying to fish-out all the 80s pieces since I've put the entire decade on sale for the month of November, and out popped this dress. I instantly remembered how I was immediately struck by the black and red print when I found it. You just don't see black and red as a popular color story these days, but in the 80s? It was everywhere. This is the second black and red 80's piece I've put in the shop today. This was the first one. I KNOW, RIGHT!? This blouse tickles me. It's so 80s. It's like 80s Annie Oakley hooked up with one of the Chippendales dudes and had a kid and that kid was a blouse. But I digress. Let's go back to talking about this 80s dress. First off, I feel like I need to just get out in front of it. YES. There are shoulder pads in this dress. But they're not overwhelming. Sure, you can take out the shoulder pads in 80's garments, but if they're not massive linebacker pads, I kind of like to leave them. I think design details like shoulder pads and wonky bat sleeves and Michael Jackson shoulder pleats often prevent people from really seeing these 80s pieces for what they could be in 2020. A lot of them have zero hanger appeal, it's true. But seriously, try them on once in a while if you get a chance. They actually make more sense on the body than they do on the hanger. This dress is definitely one of those 80's secretary dresses (instant images of that movie Working Girl where all the women are walking through Manhattan in dresses like this and bright white sneakers, their real shoes in their handbags). This dress was definitely meant for someone much smaller than me, as evidenced by the matching fabric belt that is several sizes too small for me. This dress was probably meant to fit much blousier than it does on me, as was the norm in the 80s. But if you overlook that potential 80s design hangup, what you're left with is a really lovely vintage dress with a surprising number of styling possibilities, shoulder pads and all. So in conclusion, wear your dang mask, wash your hands, and when you can, try on that weird-looking 80s piece that made you pause for a moment. Nine West Boots (old), similar | Charlie 1 Horse Highway Hat | similar earrings similar necklace
- Fall Colors
Up until yesterday, it was pretty hard for me to really think in terms of the fall clothes that I pretty much live in year-round when I'm in the UK. Here in Florida, it's been pretty consistently in the high 80s and 90s pretty much every day. Yesterday, it finally broke towards the Florida winter temperatures, and was a frigid (snort) 75. I'm flying back to the UK on Tuesday (don't worry, I already voted), so it was pretty nice being able to finally open the house up at night. And I suppose it's actually time I start thinking about fall clothes again, if only for my own survival once I land. This little jacket is pretty much everything I love about late 90s-early 2000s fashion all in one place. My very favorite thing about this piece is that it's 80% silk, so you get a jacket look with of all these fall colors, yet without the weight or scratchiness of heavy, wooly fabrics. Even when I'm in a cold climate, I find all these wooly, tweedy pieces, as much as I love the way they look, to be just too damn hot and scratchy for indoor wear. This jacket packs a nice big punch without the weight, and it will layer nicely as well. So let's talk late 90s fashion. Short sleeved blazers with a little puff in the sleeve, swing jackets, peter pan collars, lots of earthy tones (so much brown) and Aztec-inspired prints were all over the place. This little jacket brought back all sorts of fashion memories. I worked in retail on and off quite a bit during that time period, and I can remember all of these pieces like the back of my hand after hours "shop-girling-it"; folding and sorting and picking garments up off of dressing room floors and making them look nice again. Which brings up a point...the picking things up off of dressing room floors, that is. Seriously, who does that? Who throws shop garments on the floor and just....leaves them there!? There are precious few things that tell the world that you are a gigantic spoiled jerk incapable of adulting more pointedly than going into a shop dressing room, trying a bunch of things on, then leaving them all rumpled on the floor or balled-up in a corner. Even just writing about it makes me all ornery. So. Rude. But I digress. Apart from apparently triggering some residual dressing room sensory anger, the psychological associations I have with late 90s fashion pieces are nothing but positive and fun. To complete my Y2K " Geez I hope my AOL doesn't crash when the clock turns to 2000" look, I added a similarly-dated red leather envelope clutch for color and happiness. Because that's what we all need right now, right? Color. And. Happiness. Both of these pieces are available in the Highland Fashionista Etsy Shop.
- Thrift Store Wrestler
I know I haven't been hitting you guys with a lot of daily outfit posts lately. Truth be told, I'm still in the US for another few weeks, and this being a pandemic, and it still being pretty damn hot out there right now in Florida, I'm really only ever in a pair of cutoffs and a -shirt most days. Or in my scooter gear if I'm going somewhere. There's not a lot of variety in my sartorial diet right now. But that doesn't mean I'm not thinking about sartorial things. I'm still curating the vintage shop, and in doing so I inevitably happen upon pre-loved pieces that find their way into my closet. This is one of them. In fact, come to think of it, with the exception of the jewelry and shoes (okay and the underwear), absolutely everything about this look is secondhand. The jeans are early 2000s era bootcut Hudson Jeans (that I was going to list in the vintage shop then lost the heart), the gorgeous leather belt an unbranded but truly spectacular seven dollar thrift store find, the tank from a Goodwill haul last summer, and the piece de résistance - this duster. I think this duster is originally from Target (pron: Tar-jay), and it was actually on one of the mannequins in a thrift store in my hometown a couple of weeks ago as I walked in with my sister. It was rumpled and the fringes were all knotted and tangled, but I knew instantly I wanted it, so I wrestled the manneqin for it right there and then, with an audience of people gawking at me. I handily won the wrestling match, by the way. Skinny b**ch never stood a chance. It took a good washing and me literally combing-out the fringes on the thing with one of those little black barber shop combs, but it was worth it in the end. It's a beautiful piece, and I'm really loving how you can just throw it on and go. And yes, I gave the poor mannequin a different top to wear to cover herself in her humiliation of such a decisive defeat. I'm not a complete barbarian.
- New RealHer Shades!
Another wonderful surprise package from RealHer found its way to me a little over a week ago. They've rolled-out five new shades of their Matte Liquid Lipstick, and sent them to me to take for a spin. For most of last week, I wore a new shade every day. You'll remember from my post not so long ago that these RealHer liquid Matte lipsticks are literally the only liquid matte lipstick I'll even go near. They stay on beautifully, aren't overly drying, and can be used as a stain or a base to create endless other looks. Just today, I had no makeup on, but put a bit of one of the pink shades on before I nipped out on my scooter. the weather went from Florida sun to wind to drizzle while I was out, but my lips stayed put. That lipstick looked the same when I came home hours later as it did when I put it on. These new shades really go from one end of the spectrum to the other, and even though at first glance I thought perhaps some of them might be...er...challenging for me, especially with a bit of sun on my skin, They are all pretty wearable, albeit with differing levels of drama. Just like real life, I suppose. I did this little experiment by wearing these shades exactly as I would in my daily life, as opposed to as one might for the camera. In other words, if it looks like I'm wearing minimal make-up, that's because more often than not, I am. That's how I roll most days, especially when it's hot outside. So let's get to it, shall we? Shade: I WILL RISE This was the lightest shade of the bunch, and probably too light for my slightly olive, tanned skin. It was sort of like putting concealer on my lips, but in the spirit of the exercise, I decided just to go with it and make it into a LEWK. On me, this shade really was a very 1960s white-out kind of shade so it cried out for a dark eye. So that's what I did,. It's more makeup than I normally wear during the day, but I ended up really liking the look. Even with my bra strap hanging out in the photo. Yep. We're all about keepin' it real over here at Highland Fashionista HQ. Shade: I AM ENOUGH This is a shade that I would buy ten thousand times over. In fact, it's a shade that I probably have ten thousand versions of right now. On me, I Am Enough is a perfect neutral shade for those low/no makeup days as well as a perfect base for any other. It is the kind of look I wear every day and offers just a hint of color. I especially liked this one with a bit of sun on my skin. For me, I consider this shade an essential. Shade: I AM BRILLIANT I Am Brilliant is a lovely mauve-based pink that I would place firmly in the "everyday" category. Because I have sun on my skin right now, it was a bit on the light side for me at the time of this photo, but this is one that I would say is slightly more intentional and finished of a look (than say the more neutral previous shade I Am Enough) in that it gives a hint of color without needing to scream it at you. I think we've all had enough screaming in 2020, am I right? Shade: I AM A GODDESS My reaction when I first encountered this shade was "...oh boy" followed by a conciliatory "well, it was nice of my 1990s lipstick to pay me a visit after all these years." Once was the time I wore a shade this dark as a part of my larger 1990s uniform. That was nearly three decades ago, and if I do go dramatic these days, I tend to favor brighter reds, pinks, and corals on account of the hair. That said, the shade was not as harsh on me as I had envisioned. Granted, I think this shade would look best on someone a with dark skin, or conversely, someone with porcelain skin who's really making it a look, but I did manage to find a happy balance with this one. It is a very blue-based shade, and with sun on my skin, it made for an odd contrast. I also found it to be way too opaque if I applied it straight from the tube with liner and allowed it to dry down; it required a bit of blotting, and was a bit harder to get even due to the relative opacity of the shade. Would I buy this shade? Probably not at age 49. My 29 year old self would have been all over it. But this shade is a commitment, and I am inherently lazy. But you never know - these days I tend to eschew certain shades, then shortly thereafter wish I had it when something comes up. Shade: I AM AMAZING I saved this one for last because it was hands-down my favorite. I AM AMAZING is a bright, firey orange-red (the swatch in the photo just doesn't do it justice). I knew the minute I unpacked this one it was going to be the favorite. This is how I like to bring the drama. On me, this shade had all of the drama of the darker I AM A GODDESS, but without the trickiness of application. Perhaps it is on account of the warmer shade matching my skin tone better, but this shade went right on without any hassle, and stayed there. This shade is one of those shades where the lipstick is literally the only makeup you will need. And yes, it shouts. But I happen like its message.

















